Are Bones Safe For My Dog? Vet-Approved Facts & Safety Guide

It seems natural that dogs and bones should go hand-in-hand (or rather paw-in-mouth). But despite their begging demeanor and your impulse to give in to it, not all dogs should be given a bone.

The right bones make an excellent treat for pups that are suitable candidates for having bones as a dental chew. However, whether or not your pup can be given a bone depends on their personality and chewing habits and is something  you should discuss with your vet.

That’s why it is impossible to tell if bones are okay for your pup until a veterinarian or dog trainer assesses them on an individual basis. In this article, let’s examine how to tell if your dog might be a potential candidate for receiving a bone, and the types of bones such a dog should be given.

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Are Bones Okay For My Dog?

Certain raw bones can make an excellent dental chew for some dogs. Not only do bones provide such dogs with enrichment and a way to beat boredom, but they also help control tartar.

However, not all dogs should be given bones. Dogs that are overly ambitious chewers, quick eaters, and excessively hyper may suffer injuries if given a bone. For such dogs, biting on a bone too hard may result in dental injuries, injuries to their gums, and other injuries in their oral cavity. Extremely ambitious chewers may break a bone and swallow a small piece. This is dangerous, as the bone may become a choking hazard, lodge somewhere along their digestive tract, or even perforate parts of the tract.

In addition, puppies shouldn’t be given bones, as their deciduous teeth (also known as milk teeth) are softer than adult teeth, and therefore more prone to injury from biting down on a bone.

Toy and miniature breeds usually struggle with large bones as well. As a general rule, bones offered to dogs shouldn’t exceed the size of their heads.Furthermore, if your dog is under medication or ill (especially with a gastrointestinal issue) – always double check with your vet before giving them a bone (even if they were fine with bones before).

Finally, the most important factor when deciding if your dog is a suitable candidate for a bone is to ask your vet. Your vet will help you make this decision based on your dog’s breed, age, size, any underlying health issues, and information about their personality and chewing habits. Offering your dog a bone of any kind before consulting with your veterinarian is strongly discouraged.

vet checking the siberian husky dog in the clinic
Image Credit: Pressmaster, Shutterstock

Types of Bones Safe for Dogs

If your vet determines that your dog is a suitable candidate for having bones, you should still proceed with caution and observe them with the bone at all times. Ask your vet for advice on which bones are best for your dog.

When considering which type of bone is the safest for your canine friend, choose raw over cooked bones. Avoid feeding cut or split bones, and once the bone is gnawed to the brittle hard part, your dog risks making splinters, so replace it.

While maintaining the rule of raw bones only, the safest bones you can give to your dog (factoring in their size) include:

  • Beef Bones: Dogs can safely eat beef ribs and steak bones if they are large and not susceptible to breakage or splintering.

  • Lamb Bones: Since lamb bones are dense like beef, similar rules apply when feeding them to your dog. While you can also give your four-legged friend a cooked lamb bone, if it’s large and thick, raw is always better.

Choose large thick bones instead of narrow small ones as your dog is less likely to chew these into shards or tiny swallow-able pieces. But avoid giving your four-legged pal a bone if they suffer from digestive issues such as frequent diarrhea or irritable bowel syndrome, IBS, as the marrow’s richness may exacerbate such problems.

Remember that bones are a complement or treat after food and shouldn’t be an alternative or supplement. Therefore, try minimizing the amount you’ll offer, and limit gnawing time to five or ten minutes if it’s their first time chewing on a bone.

raw beef bone with marrow for making broth
Image Credit: Adam J Chan, Shutterstock

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How to Tell If the Bone You’re Feeding to Your Dog Is Safe

If you ask your dog, there’s no good or bad bone, so it’s up to you to use discretion when selecting the best bones that you can safely feed. Once you’ve eliminated the risk with factors like size, brittleness, and breakability, you’ll pick the safest bone if you know what aspects to look for.

  • See how thick the bone is or if it can be easily bent or broken. While that depends on your dog’s size, bone density is essential because if you can break it, so can your dog.

  • Feel the bone whether their surface is smooth, jagged, or rough. Rough and jagged bones risk cutting into your dog’s mouth, while pores and holes on a bone indicate brittleness and the likelihood of shards breaking.

  • In addition, scratching the bone’s surface will show whether there’s a chalky residue, which means it’s weak and likely to splinter.

Which Bones Pose a Threat to My Dog?

Monitoring your dog while they’re chewing bones is essential since even raw ones can have disastrous results on your pooch’s health. In addition, there’s no safe bone for some dogs, as gnawing on a large, round knucklebone can cause broken teeth.

Dogs chew bones differently according to their personality, and if your mutt is a chomper or quick chewer, small pieces or splinters can become choking hazards.

Raw bones may also harbor food-borne pathogens like salmonella if left outside for an extended period, which is dangerous for immuno-compromised pets and persons in your household. However, when faced with the lesser of two evils, go for uncooked bones instead of cooked ones as these pose less danger.

Due to the brittleness created by cooking, your dog’s chewing broken shards from cooked bones will risk internal injuries when fragments get stuck in the intestines. Not only can that cause constipation and blockage, but intestinal damage will also lead to costly vet visits that may result in surgery.

Besides broken teeth, constipation, and gastrointestinal blockage, other hazards that come from cooked brittle bones include:

  • Tongue, lower jaw, and mouth injuries

  • Esophagus and windpipe blockage (choking)

  • Rectal bleeding

  • Punctures in the intestines or stomach cause bacterial infections

Bones to Avoid
  • Chicken or Turkey Bones: Veterinary expert consensus is that chicken and turkey bones, whether raw or cooked, are unsafe for dogs due to their propensity for splintering and breaking. Sharp pieces may cause your dog to choke, and splinters will puncture the gastrointestinal tract, causing extreme pain, infection, or death.

  • Pork Bones: Like chicken, these bones splinter and break easily, leading to consequences of adverse health impacts for your dog.

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Are There Benefits to Giving My Dog Bones?

Bones are tough and long-lasting, meaning they’ll keep your dog busy chewing for long, but mainly for recreation and not for express nourishment.

Chewing is also one way to provide a healthy outlet for your canine. Studies show there’s a release of happy hormones in your dog when they chew, which helps curb aggressive behavior.

Furthermore, occasionally chewing on the right bone helps your dog clean their teeth and prevents plaque buildup, reducing chances of gum disease. However, bones shouldn’t replace regular brushing and vet teeth cleaning visits if you’re to maintain your dog’s dental hygiene.

Although bones contain trace nutrients like phosphorus and calcium, your dog should refrain from swallowing any of the shards since these may pose a challenge to digest. Instead, nutritional benefits are derived from any attached soft tissue like meat, cartilage, or internal marrow that provides fats, vitamins, and proteins. If you intend to feed your dog bones (as part of a raw diet), the bones should be finely ground and mixed into their food. Always consult with a canine nutritionist and your vet prior to transitioning your dog to a raw meat based diet.

Dog chewing on bone treat
Image Credit: James Smith, Pixabay

How to Store Raw Bones for Your Dog

Freezing is the best storage method for raw bones, especially natural ones with some residual flesh tissue on them. You can then refrigerate or thaw the bone before offering it to your dog, ensuring that the surface on which they gnaw their treat is also clean.

When you decide that your dog has had enough for the day, you should gently wipe the bone before putting it back in the fridge or freezer. Use a bag or container to separate human and dog food so there’s no contamination or use a separate unit.

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Tips for Keeping Your Dog Healthy, Safe, & Happy

Besides choosing the best bones to feed your dog, you should be proactive about their health, safety, and happiness in your household. Allowing them sufficient bone-chewing time is a great start, but you can also do the following:

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Conclusion

Deciding if bones are appropriate for your dog requires the input of your veterinarian or a dog trainer. If your dog is a suitable candidate for bones, there are several options to choose from. You can safely feed your dog with appropriately-sized raw beef or lamb bones if they’re thick, dense, and larger than your dog’s muzzle. That’s so the bone won’t break or splinter into dangerous shards, and there’s a lower risk of swallowing. Dogs should always be monitored when they’re chewing on bones.

Avoid brittle and easy-to-break bones such as poultry and some pork chops, especially if your dog’s size means it can easily swallow them. Ingested bones pose a health threat to dogs, including injury or punctures to their mouths, stomach, and intestinal tract.


Featured Image Credit: alexei_tm, Shutterstock

The post Are Bones Safe For My Dog? Vet-Approved Facts & Safety Guide appeared first on Pet Keen.

How Custom Dog Food Can Help Your Pup’s Health

The post How Custom Dog Food Can Help Your Pup’s Health by Rachel Phelps appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren’t considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

Who says meal delivery is just for humans? The latest trend in pet nutrition is custom dog food, and it’s a great way to ensure your pet is getting the nutrition he needs to thrive. Not only is it healthy, but it’s also delicious, making mealtime the highlight of your dog’s day.

There are a lot of choices for both custom kibble and wet food varieties. Typically, these dog food companies are subscription-based, where the food is shipped directly to your door in proportioned containers. Just like we humans, our pups can now enjoy the convenience and health benefits of pre-cooked meal delivery based on their needs.

What is personalized dog food versus customized dog food?

On most subscription-based dog food companies’ websites, you first complete a survey  about your dog. Some of these questions may include your dog’s age, weight, breed, energy levels, health problems, dietary preferences and restrictions, and lifestyle. Based on your answers, the company suggests a diet personalized or customized to your dog.

Personalized dog food is where the company offers one of its many pre-packaged diets that address common needs based on breed, health, issues, etc. Customized dog food is where the made-to-order company offers a special diet designed specifically for your dog’s individual needs. It is like having your very own personal chef for your dog.

Benefits of a customized dog food diet

A diet customized for your dog’s needs could help improve your dog’s health and well-being by providing the right balance of nutrients, helping him maintain his weight (or lose weight), maintaining strong bones and joints, and even supporting a healthy immune system. Also, a customized dog food diet might help manage these conditions:

  • food allergies
  • food sensitivities
  • GI upset
  • joint inflammation
  • skin issues
  • health conditions, such as diabetes or liver disease

What’s the best custom dog food brand?

When choosing a custom dog food company, look for the following criteria:

  • reliable (company meets its customers’ expectations regularly without failure)
  • uses high-quality ingredients
  • has safety and quality standards
  • diet is 100% complete and balanced according to AAFCO standards (The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) sets nutritional standards and guidelines for pet food.)
  • animal nutrition experts or veterinary nutritionists who oversee the development of the diets

Top custom dog food picks

Three of my favorite custom dog food picks due to the quality and variety of the food and subscription plans.

  1. Ollie
  • Starts at $4 a day
  • Subscription-based
  • Has baked and fresh plans (kibble and frozen/fresh food)
  • Also has dog treats and supplements
  1. Just Food For Dogs
  • Subscription-based or pickup in their own retail stores or at select Petco’s
  • fresh frozen and pantry-stable formulas
  • Has vet-prescribed food as well for certain medical conditions.
  • Also has dog treats
  1. Farmers Dog
  • Subscription-based
  • Starts at $2 a day
  • Fresh frozen
  • Has a trial box option

Some companies also offer one or two-week trial subscriptions and shipments to make sure your dog will enjoy and eat the food, and it won’t upset his digestive system. This is a great option for those owners who have very picky pups!

How much does custom dog food cost?

Custom dog food can be more expensive than commercial dog food you pick up at the local store, but many pet owners, especially those who have pups with medical issues, feel that the benefits of the customized diet are worth it. Also, if you have pet insurance, some plans cover this type of food if it is prescribed by your vet.

With made-to-order dog food, your dog can enjoy the benefits of a special diet that truly addresses his needs while you enjoy the convenience of pre-portioned meals delivered to your door. So why not give it a try and treat your pet to a gourmet meal? Bon-Appetit!

The post How Custom Dog Food Can Help Your Pup’s Health by Rachel Phelps appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren’t considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

14 Tips to Help a Leash Reactive Dog

The post 14 Tips to Help a Leash Reactive Dog by Debbie DeSantis, BAH, CPDT-KA appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren’t considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

What is a leash-reactive dog? Your usually friendly dog starts barking and lunging when he sees or hears another dog or when a jogger or loud truck passes by. And you wonder what happened. After all, off a leash, he’s calm.

Many dogs can ignore these sights and sounds and take them in stride. But a leash-reactive dog responds to certain stimuli at a higher-than-normal level of intensity. His reactivity is a result of the stress that he’s experiencing. Here are tips to help manage your dog’s leash reactive behavior:

First, determine what he’s reactive to (for example, cars, people or other dogs) and why. Reasons behind leash-reactive behavior can include genetics, the behavior was successful for the dog in the past and barrier frustration, similar to being stuck behind a fence. Then, decide how to manage and develop a program for modifying the behavior.

14 tips to manage a leash-reactive dog

You can take many actions to help manage your dog’s reactivity while he’s on leash.

  1. Remain calm and don’t yank on or tighten the leash.

Your dog can read your voice, body language and scent. If you’re stressed, he becomes more anxious, too. A tight leash can lead to reactivity.

  1. Keep your dog under threshold.

Make sure that he isn’t overstimulated by things, animals or people that would otherwise cause him to be reactive. Often this means keeping him at a sufficient distance from the stimulus. So, for example, if he becomes overstimulated by dogs who are 29 feet away but not when they are 30 feet away, stay at least 30 feet away while you’re working with the issue.

  1. Ensure safety with the proper equipment.

Use equipment that your dog can’t escape from, such as a correctly fitted harness, a Martingale-type collar or a combination of both. Don’t use aversive equipment, such as a prong or shock collar.

  1. Socialize your dog at his own pace.

While you’re working with the cause of his reactivity, slowly expose him to everyday sights, sounds, people and animals that he can handle and to which he isn’t reactive. Always use positive reinforcement of treats, praise and play.

  1. Train your dog to perform certain behavior cues.

Teach certain behavior cues first without distractions so that your dog can focus.

The two most important cues to teach when modifying leash-reactive behavior are “look” and “turn.”

Teach a “look” cue. And also teach your dog to pay attention to you by default. Train him to walk on a loose leash. These skills help him to focus on you rather than the environment. You can also teach your dog to nose-target to your hand, as long as he doesn’t redirect his frustration onto you.

Teach an emergency U-turn when you say the cue “turn.” Lure your dog to turn 180-degrees with you in the other direction away from the stimulus, praising and rewarding immediately after the turn.

Add distractions after he understands and performs the cue. Eventually, you can use the cues when you’re out-and-about with your pup.

An added bonus of this training is that your pup is more confident because he knows what’s expected of him.

  1. Don’t have him greet other dogs while on leash.

A leash interferes with the natural ways dogs greet each other in which they sniff, display body language that each understands and can advance and retreat. On lead, a dog can’t retreat when he feels threatened or if he isn’t in the mood to engage. Also, leashes can become tangled, even leading to a fight.

  1. Don’t reward leash-reactive behavior.

If your dog’s frustrated by the leash, is reactive and wants to greet other people or dogs, don’t allow him to greet them even if he’s friendly when off lead. If he’s pulling and barking to reach them and you allow him to, you reward the behavior. He will continue to be reactive the next time he sees people or canines, believing that he will be allowed to greet them. And he would probably be over threshold and not react appropriately if he were allowed to greet.

  1. Exercise your dog physically and mentally prior to your walk.

Exercise helps him de-stress and take the edge off. Help your dog to succeed.

  1. Take your dog for walks at “off” times.

If he’s reactive to traffic, for example, try not to walk him at rush hour or on very busy streets. If he’s reactive to dogs or people, take routes at times where there aren’t likely to be any.

  1. Classically condition your dog’s response to the stimulus.

You’re changing your dog’s association to — that is, emotional response to — the stimulus. You want to change the way your dog feels. This is a conditioned emotional response. Any change in behavior, such as a lack of reactivity, is a bonus result of your dog’s new, positive association with the stimulus.

Here’s an example: If the stressor is a person, as soon as your dog sees the person, give a steady stream of yummy treats, such as small pieces of deboned chicken. Do this for about 20 second to a minute, depending on how reactive your dog is. The goal is for your dog to realize that the appearance of the stressor makes great things happen.

If your dog goes over threshold, keep giving chicken, but move away at a distance beyond his threshold distance where your dog isn’t reactive. Then start again.

  1. Add counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) of your dog to the stimulus.

Once your dog gives you the conditioned emotional response you desire — happily enjoying the presence of the stimulus — you can counter-condition and desensitize your dog to the stimulus.

Here’s how: Do training setups where the stimulus is beyond your dog’s threshold distance. If your dog’s reactive on lead to other dogs, for example, use a handler with a nonreactive test dog who will ignore your dog. Stay at a distance where your dog is under threshold.

Instruct the handler to go in-sight, then out-of-sight. When the duo is in-sight and your dog is calm, give him a series of treats until the duo goes out-of-sight. The presence of the stimulus makes the yummy chicken appear.

Keep this exercise short and positive. Don’t over-do it and stress your dog. Eventually, your dog should look to you when he sees the other dog, expecting you to provide the chicken pieces. This demonstrates that he understands that the appearance of the other dog makes chicken appear, and he performs a default behavior of looking to you.

Alternatively, you can have the duo in place and you and your dog go in-sight, out-of-sight a few times. 

Of course, you give a stream of treats when the other dog is in-sight and give no treats when the other dog’s not in view. End the session on a positive note.

Once your dog understands that he gets treats when a dog appears and he doesn’t become reactive, add a cue. Say in a happy tone “Where’s the dog?” when the dog appears. In subsequent training sessions, your pup will become happy when the dog appears, looking for his yummy treats from you.

If your dog becomes reactive, move away to a distance at which he was successful.

Over your next training sessions — as your dog can handle it — move very slowly closer to the other dog to desensitize him to other canines. Don’t rush the process. It may take weeks or months — or longer — for your dog to move forward. Each dog’s an individual and moves at his own pace. But, if you’re properly doing the CC&D, you should see progress. Keep your dog under threshold.

Also, over time, have him generalize this with many other dogs as test subjects, as well as new settings. This takes time and many training sessions.

  1. Redirect your dog to another activity.

Carry a favorite toy that you toss immediately in front of your dog and tell him to get it. Or have about five small, yummy treats in your hand and toss them down (with him watching). Tell him to “find it.” This also has the bonus of classically conditioning your dog that something positive occurs when the stimulus, such as a dog or person to which he’s reactive, appears.

  1. Use holistic aids if your vet approves.

Many types of products can help reduce a dog’s stress while on a leash. These include CBD oil, calming tabs, ThunderShirt, Adaptil and Rescue Remedy.

  1. Get professional help if needed

If your dog’s reactivity is severe, engage the services of a veterinary behaviorist or other qualified behavior specialist.

What not to do with a leash reactive dog

Don’t punish your dog for his reactivity. Doing so inevitably makes things worse because he’s already stressed and will probably become more reactive. And you’ll lose his trust.

Also, don’t let others interfere with your behavior modification of your pup. For example, if your dog’s afraid of new people, don’t let people rush up to him.

In order to make your canine best friend’s life less stressful, determine why he’s being reactive on leash. Then you can manage the situation and successfully work through his issue. And you can both live a less stressed, happier, more fulfilling life.

The post 14 Tips to Help a Leash Reactive Dog by Debbie DeSantis, BAH, CPDT-KA appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren’t considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.