Uromastyx: Care Guide, Pictures, Varieties, & More

The Uromastyx, more commonly known as the spiny-tailed lizard, is a herbivorous reptile native to Africa and Asia. It is not a great pet for beginner reptile keepers, thanks to its particularly difficult temperature, heating, and lighting requirements. But, if you have experience with reptiles and are looking for a unique and cool pet, the Uromastyx may fit the bill.

Read on to learn more about this reptile, including everything you need to know about its challenging husbandry requirements.

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Quick Facts about Uromastyx

Species Name: Uromastyx
Common Name: Spiny-tailed lizards
Care Level: Advanced
Lifespan: 10 to 20 years
Adult Size: Up to 30 inches
Diet: Primarily herbivorous
Minimum Tank Size: 48”L x 24”W x 24”H
Temperature & Humidity: 80 – 120°F; 35% humidity

Does the Uromastyx Make a Good Pet?

Uromastyxs can be fantastic pets for advanced reptile keepers. They are active during the daytime and simple enough to feed and care for. Some species are quite shy, and it’s not unusual for them to hide whenever you try to handle them. Others are unafraid of humans entirely.

Uromastyx Lizard
Image Credit: Dan_Koleska, Shutterstock

Appearance

Though Uromastyxs come in various shapes and sizes, all species share several key physical traits. They all have bulky bodies, triangular-shaped heads, and spiny tails. Their tails have anywhere between 10 and 30 rows of spiky scales.

The skin color in some species will change if the reptile is stressed or experiencing certain temperature shifts. When they’re warm, the body will change to a pale brown with orange patches, while the tail becomes an azure blue. In periods of extreme heat, the reptile changes to an almost white appearance.

Hatchlings typically measure between three and four inches. Full-grown Uromastyx can be between 10 to 18 inches long, though certain species (e.g., Egyptian Uromastyx) can go to be 30 inches.

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How to Take Care of Uromastyx

Habitat, Tank Conditions & Setup

Tank

The minimum tank size for an adult Uromastyx is 48”L x 24”W x 24”H; however, the more space you can provide your reptile, the better. They need plenty of space to move around, and you need enough area in the enclosure to achieve a temperature gradient (more about proper temps later).

Lighting

You’ll need an overhead light source to maintain optimal temperatures in your pet’s tank. Reptile basking lights are recommended as they’re designed specifically for this purpose.

UVB lighting will also need to be provided. We recommend using a UVB bulb that is half the length of your reptile’s enclosure. It should be placed on the warm side and in a reflective T5 fixture.

When considering lighting placement, you must determine whether you’ll place the fixtures on top of your tank’s mesh roof or inside the enclosure. If you’re mounting the UVB bulb over the mesh, it should be approximately 8 to 13 inches above your Uromastyx’s back when he is basking. It must be 14 to 20 inches above the back if it goes under the mesh. You can also use a Solarmeter to help you determine where the best bulb placement is for your particular setup.

Your Uromastyx will also benefit from bright white light in his enclosure. Choose a bulb with a color temperature of approximately 6,500K to promote optimal mental and physical well-being.

Ornate uromastyx in its natural habitat
Image Credit: AvisarR, Shutterstock

Heating (Temperature & Humidity)

As a cold-blooded creature, your Uromastyx relies heavily on his environment to regulate his body temperature. This is where you come in. A halogen heat lamp is most often recommended as a heat source.

Your pet’s enclosure needs a basking area that allows for daytime temperatures of around 120°F, but his entire tank shouldn’t be this temperature. This is why getting the biggest enclosure possible is important to allow for a proper gradient, as your reptile will self-regulate his temperature by moving from one end of his tank to the other when necessary.

The ambient temperature should be around 100°F on the “warm” side, while the “cool” side should be in the 80–85°F range. Heat sources should be turned off at night to stimulate your pet’s natural environment. They can tolerate temperatures as low as the upper 60s.

  • Basking surface temperature: 120°F

  • Cool side temperature: 80–85°F

  • Warm side temperature: 100°F

Most Uromastyx don’t tolerate high humidity levels well. The enclosure should therefore be below 35% humidity (preferably 20% to 30%) at all times. You must invest in a reliable hygrometer to keep tabs on these levels.

That said, Uromastyx enjoy having access to a humid “burrow”. They will often dig one out for themselves from their substrate, but you may need to add a bit of water to help prevent the burrow from collapsing.

Substrate

 Uromastyxs are healthiest and happiest when kept in an enclosure filled with substrate they’d encounter in their natural habitat. Their habitat is sand or sandy soil, so keep that in mind when picking the substrate for your tank. Buy enough substrate to pack four inches deep, though if you can go deeper, we highly recommend it. If you take our advice and use a 48”L x 24”W x 24”H enclosure, you’ll need approximately 2.5 cubic feet of substrate.

Tank Recommendations

Tank Type 48”L x 24”W x 24”H enclosure
Lighting UVB & bright white light
Heating Halogen heat lamp
Best Substrate Sand or sandy soil

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Feeding Your Uromastyx

Ornate spiny-tailed lizard (Ornate Uromastyx)
Image Credit: reptiles4all, Shutterstock

Uromastyx are herbivores, surviving on an entirely plant-based diet. Most of their diet should consist of various nutritious veggies like collard greens, arugula, dandelion greens, Bok choy, endives, and spring mix. Uromastyxs also require seeds like lentils once a week and can eat edible flowers like hibiscus and clover and fruits like apples and papaya as special treats.

As with many reptile species, calcium and multivitamin powders are recommended to ensure your pet is getting his nutritional needs met.

How often and how much you feed your reptile will depend on his age. A juvenile should be given a meal daily and allowed to eat as much as possible, while an adult should be fed four or five times a week.

Diet Summary

Vegetables 90%
Fruits and edible flowers 5%
Seeds 5%
Supplements Required Calcium powder, multivitamin powder

Keeping Your Uromastyx Healthy

The biggest issue with keeping any reptile healthy is ensuring your husbandry is 100%. You must provide the exact environment your Uromastyx needs to thrive by nailing his lighting, heating, and temperatures.

Some species, especially the Oromastyx ornatus, are highly fragile in the first few weeks of life. They have a high mortality rate and require special care and attention during their first two months. Most believe this fragility comes from difficulties acclimating to the climate in captivity. This breed lives in the extreme desert in steep, rocky valleys, and ravines, so it’s up to you to recreate this habitat for them as best you can.

Uromastyx ornata (Ornate Uromastyx) lizard sleeping
Image Credit: Egeris, Shutterstock

Common Health Issues

Respiratory conditions. Things like breathing issues are often caused by improper husbandry, like unsuitable temperatures and wrong humidity levels. These conditions can sometimes cause fatal infections, so you must be familiar with proper husbandry well before you bring your Uromastyx home.

Bacterial infections. Any lumps or bumps on your reptile’s skin or joints should be investigated by your exotic veterinarian as soon as possible. Such signs could indicate a bacteria infection, gout, or hyperparathyroidism.

Gastrointestinal conditions. Signs like watery poop and vomiting commonly indicate a gastrointestinal disease. These can be caused by poor nutrition and other infections.

Nutrient deficiency. Improper UVB lighting can cause nutritional deficiencies and may lead to various health conditions, such as body disfigurement and broken limbs.

Lifespan

Most Uromastyx species live between 15 and 20 years; however, this isn’t true of all species. The Egyptian Uromastyx, for example, has the longest lifespan of up to 30 years. With proper husbandry, healthy specimens can live beyond that 30-year mark.

Breeding

Uromastyxs are slow growers and take quite some time before they reach sexual maturity. Most are sexually mature between ages three and four, though some may take up to five years to be ready to breed.

Wild Uromastyxs will brumate during the cooler months and then become active and interested in breeding during early spring. Give them two weeks to fully recover from brumation, and ensure your husbandry is 100% on point. If your female has lost weight, focus on feeding her a nutritionally complete diet and getting her back to her usual weight before breeding.

Do not mix different species, as the resulting babies may not survive, and those that do can develop serious, debilitating health issues.

Supervise the male and female when they are together the first few times. If you see them fighting, separate them immediately and try again later.

Female Uromastyx lay between 5 and 40 eggs, depending on their age and species. The eggs are laid approximately 30 days after copulation and require a 70- to 80-day incubation time.

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Is the Uromastyx Friendly? Our Handling Advice

ornate mastigure (Ornate Uromastyx) lying on the rock
Image Credit: Milan Zygmunt, Shutterstock

Most Uromastyxs are shy, though they can get used to being handled if their keepers are patient. Gentle handling and moving slowly around them are very important while building a relationship with your lizard.

As with any reptile, you’ll need to build trust with your Uromastyx before you can expect to handle them. When you first bring him home, leave him alone for a few weeks to give him time to settle in.

Hand feeding is a great trust-building activity. Once he willingly takes food from you, encourage him to climb into your hand by placing his food onto your arm so he has to climb up to get it.

The more interaction you make time for, the faster your reptile will start trusting you.

Shedding & Brumation: What to Expect

Shedding is a normal process that reptiles go through to replace their old skin with new skin. It occurs more often in younger reptiles as they’re still growing, but adults will still shed annually. You’ll know your pet is about to shed when his skin becomes duller. He may also exhibit behavioral signs such as sleeping or hiding more than usual.

Brumation is a condition of inactivity exhibited by reptiles during extended periods of low temperatures. It occurs during winter and can last as long as four months. Your reptile must be in good health and disease-free before going into brumation. Uromastyx in brumation will exhibit signs such as:

  • Lethargy

  • Increased sleep

  • Loss of appetite

  • Frequent hiding or burrowing

  • Infrequent bowel movements

  • Disinterest

How Much Does a Uromastyx Cost?

Young merauke blue tongued skink
Image Credit: Uromastyx, Shutterstock

Uromastyx adoption fees can vary greatly by species. You can pay as little as $80 to adopt a baby Yellow Uromastyx, while an adult Egyptian Uromastyx can run you anywhere between $200 and $550. We even found online retailers selling rarer species for as much as $1,000. So, as you can see, the price will vary wildly from breeder to breeder and species to species.

Care Guide Summary

Pros
  • Relatively cheap to feed

  • Long lifespans

  • Can be docile after they get used to you

  • Don’t need to offer live feeders

Cons
High temperature requirement

  • Needs time to adjust to a new environment

  • Can be very skittish and shy at first

  • Can be harder to find

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Conclusion

Uromastyxs are a unique pet suitable for experienced reptile keepers. While they’re relatively easy and cheap to feed, their particular temperature, heating, and lighting requirements can make them difficult to keep as pets. Additionally, they’re not as friendly and docile as other reptile species right out of the gate, making their keepers need to work to earn their trust and respect.


Featured Image Credit: Danny Ye, Shutterstock

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How Much Does a Green Anole Cost? (2022 Price Guide)

The green anole is a small, green lizard that is one of the most popular pet lizards in the US. It is small, lively during the day, and entertaining to watch. Anoles are considered good starter lizards because they are relatively low maintenance, but some can get stressed when handled and they do move very quickly so they can be difficult to catch if they get out of your hand.

While a green anole will only usually set you back around $10, buying a suitable enclosure and equipment will cost around $250 and ongoing costs are $25 or more per month, taking into account replacement bulbs, substrate, and food and supplements. There are ways you can save money in most areas, however.

Read on for more information regarding how much green anoles cost to buy and over the course of their lifetime.

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Bringing Home a New Green Anole: One-Time Costs

Green anoles themselves are cheap. They are sold as feeder lizards in a lot of pet shops, which means that they are sold as a food source for larger animals including several varieties of reptiles and snakes. They are readily available, and because there is a large stock of this intriguing little lizard, you should be able to buy one for between $5 and $10. There may be some green anoles found in rescue centers, where they will likely have a similar adoption fee. The costs of housing and providing healthy living conditions for your pet will be much higher than the cost of buying the anole itself.

Green Anoles side view
Image Credit: Brett_Hondow, Pixabay

Free

Green anoles usually live around 4 years, and because some struggle with being handled, you may know somebody that is looking to get rid of their anoles to a good home. You may also find a rescue center that has green anoles and is unable to keep them, and therefore willing to get rid of them. Check boards in local shops and even message boards online: these can be a good source of inexpensive and even free green anoles.

Adoption

  • $5–$10

Some animal charities and rescue centers might have green anoles, as well as other lizards and reptiles, although not all do. There are very few reptile specialist rescue centers but it is worth checking in your local area and contacting shelters near you to see if they do have any that need a good home. Adopting a green anole usually attracts the same cost as buying one from a pet shop so expect to pay around $10 each.

Breeder

  • $5–$10

Green anoles are very common because they are used to feed larger reptiles and snakes, as well as making a good beginner pet for potential lizard owners. Few breeders sell their anoles individually, however, because of the low cost that they receive for them. Pet shops do stock these animals, even if they don’t usually stock lizards and reptiles. The wide availability of the anole means that it is a low-cost pet option that will set you back approximately $10.

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Initial Setup and Supplies

  • $100–$400

While the anole itself is inexpensive, you will need a suitable setup. Anoles can’t live freely in your home, like cats and dogs. They need adequate lighting, heat, and humidity, and they need an enclosure. The enclosure needs substrate and these little lizards benefit from having items like plants and rocks in the enclosure. All of these costs add up, and you should expect to pay around $200 to ensure that you have a suitable setup ready for your new pet. You may be able to pick some items up cheaper, especially if they are used, but always be cautious when buying used lights or heaters, to ensure that they work properly.

List of Green Anole Care Supplies and Costs

Terrarium $10–$50
Heat lamp $15–$30
UVB Light $15–$30
Hygrometer $10–$20
Thermometer $10–$20
Water bowl $5–$10
Rock $10–$15
Wood $0–$20
Other décor $10–$50
Cover $10–$20
Lights $10–$20
Substrate $10–$20

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How Much Does a Green Anole Cost Per Month?

  • $30–$80 per month

A green anole’s diet will consist primarily of crickets, but you can introduce other gut-loaded insects to offer variety and ensure that your pet is getting the nutrition it requires from its diet. Gut loading means feeding the insects vitamin and mineral supplements that the anole will consume when eating the insects. As well as the cost of food, you will need replacement substrate, and UVB bulbs will need replacing every 6 months or so. Pet insurance that covers small lizards like the green anole is very rare, and you may find it difficult to locate an experienced vet that can deal with any health problems.

Green Anole
Image Credit: Brett_Hondow, Pixabay

Health Care

  • $10–$20 per month

You will need to supplement your green anole’s diet with vitamin powder. The powder is fed to feeder insects before they are fed live to the lizard. Such supplements usually include calcium and vitamin D3, with the rest of your lizard’s nutritional requirements being met by their daily intake of insects. You should also spot-clean the substrate, which means removing any solids and areas that have clumped due to waste. Ensure the vivarium’s humidity and temperature levels are suitable for your lizard, too.

Food

  • $20–$40 per month

Green anoles are insectivores, which means that they live on insects. Most owners feed a diet that predominantly consists of crickets because they are easy to buy and care for, and they provide good nutrition. However, you can feed other insects including mealworms and waxworms but ensure that you gut load them with supplements first. The insects you feed should be about half the size of your lizard’s head and you can expect to feed between three and five prey items a day.

Medications and Vet Visits

  • $0–$10 per month

Not all vets have experience dealing with small lizards like green anoles, but they should be able to research and help you determine what is wrong with your pet if it gets ill. Try to find a local vet that you trust. If you do need to visit the vet, there will be a cost for the consultation and additional costs for any treatments that are required.

Pet Insurance

  • $0–$12 per month

The vast majority of pet insurance companies only offer policies for popular pets like cats and dogs, but some do offer exotic and reptile insurance. Insurance policies for green anoles should be inexpensive because treatments are limited, which means that they attract minimal costs. Having insurance can spread the cost of any future treatment but its lack of availability and limited treatment options means that most owners consider pet insurance for their anoles to be unnecessary.

green anole on leaf shedding
Image credit: Brett_Hondow, Pixabay

Environment Maintenance

  • $10–$30 per month

As well as food and potential vet costs, other ongoing costs associated with keeping a green anole are primarily for environmental enrichment. You will need to buy substrate and if you use live plants, you may need to replace these over time. Otherwise, your anole really only needs water to stay healthy.

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Total Monthly Cost of Owning a Green Anole

  • $30–$80 per month

The green anole is considered a good starter pet for potential lizard owners. It is relatively easy to care for and because it is diurnal, owners get to experience their lizard’s behavior during the day. It is inexpensive to buy and cheaper than a lot of larger lizards to keep, with the biggest costs being those associated with initially buying the enclosure and ensuring that it has an appropriate living environment. Green anoles typically live between 3 and 4 years, so you should plan accordingly.

Owning a Green Anole on a Budget

There are ways that you can save money on green anoles. If you are taking on somebody else’s green anole, ask what setup they have and whether you can make an offer for the equipment, especially the enclosure. Alternatively, consider buying a used enclosure but do make sure you inspect it before agreeing to the purchase. In particular, ensure it is suitable for your lizard and that it isn’t cracked or damaged. You can also look on social media marketplaces, on boards in local stores and pet stores, and online.

green anole face side view
Image Credit: JUSTIN SMITH, Pixabay

Saving Money on Green Anole Care

When it comes to saving money on the ongoing costs of a green anole, the biggest savings are likely to come from buying items in bulk rather than individually. This even includes the crickets and other insects that you feed. Ensure you don’t buy more than your lizard will eat in 2 weeks. Crickets only have a maximum 8-week lifespan and they will be a few weeks old before you take delivery of them. Buying more than your lizard eats means that some of your feeder crickets will die and you won’t be able to feed these to your lizard.

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Conclusion

Green anoles are a good basic or beginner lizard for potential owners. They are inexpensive and while they do require suitable humidity and temperature levels, they are easier to care for than some of the more difficult lizard species. You do need to feed live insects, which may be a barrier to some squeamish owners, and while some anoles will take gentle handling, it can stress some out, so you should be prepared for the fact that your green anoles are really for viewing rather than interacting with.

Anoles are cheap to buy and relatively cheap to keep. The biggest cost will come when you buy the equipment and setup ready to bring your new pet home. But, again, even these costs are lower than with other, larger lizards.


Featured Image Credit: victoria.schell, Shutterstock

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How Long Can Chameleons Go Without Food and Water? The Surprising Answer!

Chameleons are popular reptiles, but they can be challenging to care for. Caring for reptiles, in general, can be a learning curve for pet owners who have only had experience with cats or dogs, but most reptiles will usually give warning signs that something is amiss, such as trying to escape, refusing to eat, or other odd behaviors. On the other hand, Chameleons very rarely show signs of anything being amiss, so problems may slip entirely under an inexperienced reptile owner’s radar until it is too late.

When it comes to the most basic care of a chameleon—offering food and water—it can be difficult to tell when either is needed. Chameleons do not eat every day, although they need a misting of water daily. In the most extreme cases, chameleons can survive about 1 week without food and water, but your chameleon will be in bad shape after.

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Knowing What Your Chameleon Needs

Although chameleons can technically survive with no food and water for a week or more, this is not something you should deliberately put your pet through. Before 1 week without water, your chameleon will be dehydrated. Soon after the 1-week mark, it will be starved. Just because chameleons can last this long without food and water does not mean that they should. To learn your chameleon’s general food and water guidelines, keep reading below.

Chameleons and Food 

If your chameleon does not eat every day, don’t worry. This is typical feeding behavior, as chameleons are known to go 2–3 days between meals. For this reason, it can sometimes be hard to tell when a chameleon is not eating enough.

Pay attention to subtle changes in your chameleon to make sure it is well-fed. If your chameleon starts losing weight or pigmentation, that is a sign that something is wrong. Likewise, if your chameleon is exhausted or unable to open its mouth or eyes, it may be starving.

Rudis chameleon eating a bug
Image credit: aixclusiv, Pixabay

Chameleons and Water

Chameleons do not need to drink water daily, but they must be misted every day. If they are not, they will swiftly begin to dehydrate. Assuming that your chameleon is being misted each day, it can go 2 days without water and not suffer from dehydration. However, if your chameleon goes a few days to a week without it, then the symptoms of dehydration will begin to settle in.

One of the most common causes of bodily fluid loss in chameleons is dehydration. Some signs of dehydration include lethargy, discolored urine, discolored eyes, and sunken eyes.

Why Your Chameleon Is Not Eating or Drinking

If you have noticed that your chameleon is not eating or drinking, there are many possible reasons for that behavior. These reasons are natural, normal processes that will likely sort themselves out. Others are more serious behavioral or medical issues. If you are worried about your chameleon’s well-being, do not hesitate to contact your vet.

Non-Medical Reasons 

There are many non-medical reasons why your chameleon may not eat or drink normally. Some of these are natural aspects of a chameleon’s life that you have no control over, such as the following:

  • Shedding
  • Experiencing a heat cycle
  • Laying eggs
a Panther Chameleon basking in a heat lamp's light
Image Credit: aixklusiv, Pixabay

Other reasons you may have more control over, such as your chameleon’s food or environment. Some related reasons that your chameleon may not be eating or drinking as much include:

  • Enduring stressors from its environment
  • Growing bored of the same food over and over

Medical Reasons 

Health complications are another possible source of your chameleon’s changed eating and drinking habits. Below are some medical issues that may cause your chameleon to stop eating or drinking.

  • Intestinal blockage
  • Injury on the tongue
  • Infection of the gums, jaws, or tongue
  • Gout
  • Intestinal infection
  • Parasites

If you suspect your chameleon is suffering from any of these medical issues, reach out to your vet immediately.

How Long Can a Chameleon Be Left Alone?

Chameleons can endure being alone for a day or so, but they should never be left truly alone. If you are going out of town, ask a friend or neighbor to check on your chameleon at least once a day to ensure it is happy and healthy.

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Conclusion

Chameleons are unique and fascinating creatures. Although they may not be the easiest pets to care for, they are remarkable companions for those with little experience caring for reptiles. While caring for your chameleon, be sure to keep an eye on any subtle changes in your pet’s body or behavior. If you are ever concerned about your chameleon’s health, do not hesitate to reach out to your vet.


Featured Image Credit: Wolfgang Berroth, Shutterstock

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