Category: Bearded dragons

If you’re planning to bring home a Crested Gecko for the first time, it can be overwhelming trying to determine all of the supplies you need. Sometimes it’s hard to determine just where to start!

To help you find all of the supplies you need before bringing your new reptile home, we’ve put together a list. All of the items are essential to the health and safety of your new crestie, but keep in mind that there are multiple options when it comes to things like substrate and enclosure décor, so check out all of the potential options.

 

The 12 Essential Crested Gecko Supplies

1. Vivarium

The Crested Gecko is an arboreal reptile that needs a tank that has plenty of climbing space, so stick to a tall vivarium. At minimum, an adult Crested Gecko needs an enclosure that is 12” by 12” by 18” to ensure your crestie has plenty of space to climb and move. For two Crested Geckos, stick to a larger enclosure to ensure there is plenty of space for both of them to have their own areas to prevent stress and aggression. The HerpCult Acrylic Front-Opening Reptile Habitat is a good option for beginners.

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2. Substrate

There are a lot of different substrate options for Crested Geckos, but there are also some substrates that you should avoid with these critters. Paper towels and coconut husk substrate are the two most commonly used options with Crested Geckos. Avoid using sand, wood chips, walnut husks, exposed soil, and reptibark. Instead, opt for something like this SunGrow Coconut Fiber Substrate.

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3. Cleaning Supplies

 

One of the best ways to keep your Crested Gecko healthy is by keeping their enclosure clean and hygienic. Traditional cleaning supplies are often unsafe for use in and around reptiles’ enclosures, so it’s important to choose products that are safe for use around your Crested Gecko. The Zoo Med Wipe Out Terrarium Cleaner is a good option. If you’re unsure what products are safe to use in your crestie’s enclosure, stick to commercial cleaning products that are made specifically for use with reptiles.

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4. LED Light

Crested Geckos are somewhat unique in the reptile world because they don’t usually require a heating element in their enclosure. In fact, a heater can cause the enclosure to get too warm, leading to overheating of your Crested Gecko. Because of this, it’s best to stick to an LED light for your crestie’s enclosure, like the Exo Terra Day/Night Reptile Terrarium LED Fixture.

These lights give off minimal heat, so you don’t have to worry about overheating. They don’t require much lighting, especially if their enclosure is in an area that gets a lot of natural light, so a basic day/night LED light is suitable in most situations.

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5. Mist

Crested Geckos require quite a bit of humidity in their enclosure, and they often drink water from surfaces in their tank. There are multiple options for adding humidity, from spray bottles to advanced misting systems. No matter what approach you choose to take, it’s important that you ensure there are always appropriate humidity levels in your Crested Gecko’s tank to keep them healthy and hydrated. Something like the MistKing 5.0 Ultimate Misting System is a good way to ensure they’re getting all the moisture they need.

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6. Food

Every animal needs to eat! You should already have a plan for feeding your Crested Gecko something healthy and high-quality before you bring them home. While there are fresh foods that can be appropriate for your crestie, there are now multiple high-quality food mixes on the market that provide great nutrition while giving you a convenient option. Powdered mixes are a good food option for your Crested Gecko. Try out the Repashy Superfoods Grubs ‘N’ Fruit Meal Replacement Powder.

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7. Food Dish

Not only does your crestie need food, but they also need a food bowl. Because of their arboreal nature, your crestie will likely be most comfortable eating from a feeder that sits up high in their tank. A raised or canopy feeding dish like the Exo Terra Elevated Gecko Dish is an ideal way to offer food to your Crested Gecko without them having to come down low in the enclosure. Make it a priority to clean your crestie’s food bowl daily to prevent bacterial growth, and make sure they always have fresh food.

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8. Thermometer

Even though your Crested Gecko doesn’t need a heater, you still need to keep a close eye on the temperature in their enclosure. An enclosure that is too hot or too cold can be dangerous for your crestie, leading to stress, illness, and even death. While there are multiple types of thermometers available on the market, many reptile keepers recommend using an infrared thermometer to get the most accurate temperature readings, like this one: Zoo Med ReptiTemp Digital Infrared Thermometer.

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9. Hygrometer

As previously mentioned, humidity levels are extremely important for the health of your Crested Gecko. A hygrometer is a tool that allows you to measure the humidity levels of your crestie’s enclosure. These are typically very affordable, along with being an essential tool in your kit of supplies for the care of your Crested Gecko. This Exo Terra LED Reptile Hygrometer is an affordable option to get you started.

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10. Hides

Crested Geckos value having plenty of places to hide and rest in their enclosure, so providing hides is important for maintaining their overall health and well-being. You can DIY hides or purchase them,  like the Stroodies BubbleLoft Gecko Hideout, and there are lots of shapes and textures to choose from to match the enclosure setup. Make sure to clean the inside of the hides when you are doing tank cleaning and maintenance to ensure that mold, mildew, and bacteria aren’t allowed to grow in them.

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11. Wood

While you can set your crestie’s enclosure up to meet your aesthetic preferences, you do still need to provide plenty of climbing surfaces for them to spend time on. Wood, like mopani, manzanita, cork bark, and grapevine are all good options. For example, this Zoo Med Mopani Wood would work well. Most of these woods are also sturdy and should last a long time in a humid environment. Just remember to clean them when you clean the rest of the enclosure, especially since wood can absorb moisture and allow bacterial growth over time.

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12. Plants

Putting wood into your crestie’s enclosure likely isn’t enough to make the enclosure comfortable for them. Plants are a wonderful way to make the enclosure look and feel more natural for your gecko, especially with something like Fluker’s Repta-Vines. While there are safe live plant options, they do require more care than fake plants. Fake plants are easy to clean, and they’re available in many colors, textures, and types, allowing you a great deal of customization.

Conclusion

Caring for a Crested Gecko can be a rewarding and fun experience, but planning ahead is a necessity to ensure you give your new pet the longest, healthiest life possible. Thoroughly acquaint yourself not only with the supplies you need to get your crestie set up but also how to properly use all of the supplies. It’s necessary to have a thorough understanding of how to set up and maintain the enclosure, as well as provide food and safety for them.

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Featured Image Credit: Kefca Shutterstock

The post 12 Essential Crested Gecko Supplies for Your Reptile (2023 Guide) appeared first on Pet Keen.

Bearded Dragons are not technically “pregnant.” They do not carry their babies inside their bodies like mammals do, as they are lizards. Therefore, they do what every other species of lizard does—lay eggs. The eggs incubate outside of their body.

However, there is a short period of 3 to 4 weeks after mating before the female lays her eggs. The female will lay many eggs all at one time, sometimes up to 30. It depends on the size and age of the female.

The eggs are incubated by their environment; the female does not sit on them as birds do. Therefore, the rate of maturation depends on the temperature and humidity of the environment. The warmer it is, the faster the babies develop inside their eggs. It usually takes between 60 to 70 days for the eggs to hatch.

Bearded Dragon Reproduction: The Basics

Bearded Dragons lay their eggs in the spring or summer months after they are exposed to colder temperatures in the winter. In the wild, Bearded Dragons experience many seasonal temperature fluctuations, so warming temperatures after a period of cold indicates spring. In captivity, this process must be artificially encouraged. Therefore, breeding can be encouraged at any time as long as the temperatures are controlled correctly.

After mating, the female will lay eggs 3–4 weeks later. The female will try to dig in their enclosure. Usually, material is provided for her to dig in, though this isn’t necessarily required. In the wild, females would dig in the sand or dirt.

The nesting area provided should be large enough for the eggs, and humid enough to encourage their proper development. It can take about 60 to 70 days for the eggs to hatch. In captivity, the eggs are often placed into a separate enclosure to prevent accidents. The temperature is often kept warm to encourage faster development.

Bearded Dragon mating is complicated and dangerous. Bearded Dragons must first go through a period of brumation brought on by colder temperatures. Brumation can be potentially deadly for all Dragons, even those in captivity.

After that, the process of mating and laying eggs can be dangerous for the female. Eggs can “get stuck” in the female’s body, causing all sorts of different problems and potentially death.

Breeding Bearded Dragons isn’t an easy job and should only be done by a professional with plenty of experience.

Gravid Bearded Dragons

A “pregnant” Bearded Dragon is more correctly referred to as a “gravid” Bearded Dragon. A female that becomes gravid is carrying eggs inside of her body. These eggs start developing after mating and will continue to develop for about 3–4 weeks.

When carrying eggs, female Bearded Dragons exhibit a range of changes—both physically and behaviorally. These changes may differ from dragon to dragon, and not all of these signs will be obvious all the time.

When your female is gravid, you should provide a suitable nesting area for her to lay eggs. You can use sand or soil that’s moist enough to hold its shape, but not so wet that it becomes waterlogged. Ensure that the temperature and humidity of the cage are in the right zone.

Parthenogenesis

Most female Bearded Dragons only lay eggs after mating with a male. However, this isn’t always the case. Female Bearded Dragons can also reproduce asexually without a male through a process known as parthenogenesis.

During this process, a female’s unfertilized eggs will begin to develop into embryos, even though they aren’t technically fertilized. The offspring will be exact copies of the mother, and they can develop into healthy, independent lizards under the right conditions.

In this way, a female kept in her enclosure alone can suddenly become pregnant and lay eggs that hatch.

It is important to note that parthenogenesis is relatively rare in Bearded Dragons and is not a reliable method of reproduction for breeders. Furthermore, parthenogenetic offspring may be more prone to certain genetic abnormalities, as they lack genetic diversity from a male parent.

Female Dragons can absolutely reproduce without a male partner. However, this isn’t encouraged or actively sought after.

Do Bearded Dragons Lay Unfertilized Eggs?

Bearded Dragons can lay unfertilized eggs if they haven’t mated with a male during a perceived mating season. Females will begin developing eggs before they mate. If the female never mates, she is stuck with eggs that are unfertilized. These cannot stay in her body, so she lays them, even though they will never hatch.

Usually, females can lay multiple clutches of unfertilized eggs throughout a mating season. This is most common in younger females and in conditions that are favorable for egg production.

With that said, laying many sets of eggs can deplete a female’s body and lead to calcium deficiency. Therefore, it’s important to provide the female with extra care and calcium during this period. Otherwise, she may develop bone problems. Don’t forget to provide a suitable nesting period, as well. While you may know that these eggs aren’t fertile, the female doesn’t. Therefore, she will try to lay them in the perfect spot.

Laying many clutches of eggs can also be a sign of an underlying health condition or stress. Improper enclosure setups can lead to stress and may make the female spread out her clutches. Always speak to your vet if you have questions about your Bearded Dragon’s egg-laying behavior.

Final Thoughts

Bearded Dragons do not experience traditional pregnancy as mammals do, since they are reptiles and not mammals. Instead, they lay eggs, as is typical for all lizard species. The female Bearded Dragon undergoes a period of 3–4 weeks after mating before laying her eggs. During this period, she is called “gravid,” which is basically the reptile term for “pregnant.”

The number of eggs laid at once can range from one to 30, depending on the size and age of the female. The eggs are not incubated inside the female’s body; rather, they are laid outside and develop in the surrounding environment. The female does not sit on the eggs, as is the case with birds.

The temperature and humidity of the environment play a crucial role in the maturation rate of the eggs. Warmer temperatures generally result in faster development of the babies inside their eggs. The eggs usually take between 60 to 70 days to hatch.

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Featured Image Credit: C. Nass, Shutterstock

The post How Long Are Bearded Dragons Pregnant? (Gestation Period) appeared first on Pet Keen.